I’ve mentioned before the terrific social life here in Nhulunbuy. With a population of around 3,300, most people work for Rio, at the hospital or various schools and many have young families. So there is always something happening.
Kyran’s friend Drew suggested prawns and beers at the beach one evening and five or six families turned up with food, drinks, camp chairs and eskies. The adults built a camp fire and the children played on the beach. We were in time for a beautiful sunset.
Middle Beach at sunsetFour or five families turned up for prawns and beer at Middle Beach
What a great evening we had. There’s nothing better than eating, drinking and chatting around a camp fire at sunset! And this is a regular past time here. The other evening when just Kyran, Vanessa, Tommy, John and I had fish and chips on the beach, we watched some teenagers catch small sharks from the beach for their You Tube channel (they put them back). This time, we watched a dugong swim up and down just where we were sitting.
John, Tommy and I enjoying sunset
When it was dark, the children played with sparklers then toasted marshmallows on the camp fire. They would all have slept well.
We have been here in Nhulunbuy for four weeks now and expect to be here for another four. We are spending the time with family as we don’t see them very often. Before the Northern Territory, they lived in Victoria. Tommy was born in Melbourne. As I’ve mentioned before, Vanessa is a nurse at the hospital and Kyran works several casual jobs – at the mine and on the pilot boats – around Vanessa’s roster and Tommy’s kindergarten. With us staying in our caravan in their back yard, Kyran can accept more work and we can look after Tommy. Both Kyran and Vanessa work long hours and work hard. We are more than happy to look after Tommy and Skylar, the kelpie. There are so many stunning beaches just a short drive from home, its easy!
When one or both have a day off, they seem very happy to have a day out at scenic spots a bit further out. Yesterday, Vanessa was recovering from night shift but Kyran took us out to meet some of his friends at Giddy River, about 55kms from town. We packed the esky and headed off around 10am back along the Central Arnhem Road dirt track until the turnoff.
Giddy River is gorgeous, a little oasis in the dust and bush. I was hoping it would be a fresh water river and safe from crocodiles but the usual sign, warning of crocs was there for everyone to see.
Giddy River
We met up with Drew, Sam, Talei and Lincoln plus some of their family visiting from Carnarvon and Kununurra. We set up our picnic in one of the camping areas and wandered down to paddle in the clear, shallow water.
Another lovely day out, this time at Giddy River
After the traditional camp fire and barbecue lunch, we took off to Scout Camp not far away. Once again, this was a beautiful little spot with camping areas and a toilet. We strolled down to the river where the kids and dogs, in particular, played in the clear shallow fresh water. This time it was fresh water so I felt it was safer.
Scout CampTommy with Dad and NanaTommy with Dad and PopThe boys enjoyed the rope swing
Once again, we had a fabulous day. Everyone had lots of fun and these impromptu picnics and get together are a regular thing up here in Nhulunbuy. We got a message tonight that we are all catching up tomorrow evening for prawns and drinks over a camp fire for sunset! Something else to look forward to.
For such a remote little place, there is plenty to do here in Nhulunbuy, particularly if you enjoy the beach. Not being able to swim is not really a problem for me as I’m not much of a swimmer. John was always a great swimmer but says his days for swimming are over. Those who have lived here a while are quite blase about crocodiles. They go to beaches and water holes where the water is fairly clear- and they send the dogs in first believing the crocs will always go for the dogs before people! We have swum at Bremer and Granite Islands as the water was very clear and fairly shallow. Tommy can splash around at a few others – Turtle Beach is one – where the water is clear and shallow. Recently the incoming tide at East Woody has formed a very safe little water hole that the kids can enjoy.
East Woody Beach
Kyran tells me there are amazing fish to catch here including Red Emperor, Tuna, Spanish Mackerel, Coral Trout and Barramundi just to mention a few – plus mud crabs. I have never been into fishing but, over the last few days, John and I have taken Tommy out to a few beaches to fish. We haven’t caught anything and we are just having some fun but I actually really enjoyed it. It could be the first time ever that I am not watching the clock or on a time limit and I think that is the difference. I don’t have to be anywhere at any time and what a great feeling that is. Throwing a rod into the sea over and over again, knowing (and probably hoping) I won ‘t catch anything is something I would never have contemplated before; time was too short. Now it is a lovely way to pass the time. And a great thing to do with Tommy. He loves it.
Last week, John was invited out fishing with Drew, a friend of Kyran’s, and Aiden on Drew’s boat. They left around 5.30am and returned at lunchtime. Although they didn’t do as well as they’d hoped, John had a terrific time. Between them they caught some fish including a Coral Trout and a Trevally but threw back lots that were undersized.
John had a great morning fishing with Drew and Aiden
While I’ve been enjoying time with Tommy, John has been spending an afternoon a week playing golf and is becoming one of the regulars at the Gove Golf Club.
Gove Golf Club
In case fishing and golf weren’t enough, Kyran took John to the local Gun Range for a couple of hours, and he had a great time there. He may become a regular there too!
John trying his hand at shooting at the local gun range
There is certainly no shortage of fun to be had here in Nhulunbuy. Most people spend their free time camping, fishing and at the beach, but there are lots of other ways to pass the time. I can absolutely see why people love living here.
Yesterday Vanessa had a day off and we decided to check out Turtle Beach. Kyran was working so it was just Vanessa, Tommy, John and I. John drove and had another chance to develop his four wheel driving skills. It was about an hour’s drive because we took our time and also filled up with fuel before leaving town. The drive out there took us back onto the Central Arnhem Road for a short distance then we turned off onto the track signposted for Daliwuy Beach. The track was fairly rough but, after Cape Arnhem, a piece of cake really!
There are several bays off this track including Daliwuy, Macassan and Little Bondi but we turned into Turtle Beach, parked the car, and strolled down to a beautiful beach enclosed by rocks on both sides. The water was shallow and clear which made it safe for Tommy to swim and snorkel. We set up our chairs and rugs for the day.
Looking at our picnic place for the dayThe beach is enclosed by rocks on both sides of the bay
We had a wonderful day! The weather, of course, was a beautiful 30 degrees and the beach was almost empty, but not deserted because it was Darwin Show Day so a public holiday. Tommy splashed about all day and had a terrific time. We had picnic in the shade and headed home around three o’clock. As you will see from the photos, it was another day well spent!
What five year old doesn’t want a birthday party? Our grandson, Tommy, wanted to go camping instead. While he is very friendly and chatty with family, he is shy and hates being the centre of attention. In the lead up to his birthday, he was super excited about turning five, receiving presents and helping mum make a boat birthday cake. However, on the day he was very embarrassed and shy about opening his gifts and didn’t want anyone seeing his birthday cake and singing ‘Happy Birthday. So a boat trip out to the Granites – a group of islands in Melville Bay – seemed like a good plan. We had just returned from camping at Cape Arnhem so were happy to have just the day there.
The Granites are a group of islands in Melville Bay
Ganinyarra (Granite Islands) are just about 15 minutes by boat from Nhulunbuy so Kyran packed his boat, and friends Drew, Sam, Talei and Lincoln decided to bring their boat along too. It was also Sam’s birthday although she wasn’t so shy about it! Vanessa and I stayed behind to organise food etc, and by the time we arrived, they had already set up our camp for the day. We were the only people on the island all day.
Our camp for the dayKyran came back for Vanessa and IKyran and Vanessa
The Granites are only accessed by boat Kyran’s boat in the background Drew’s boat
As always, the weather was perfect, and we had a wonderful day……….
Relaxing
John chillingDrew and Samantha chillingJohn, Richie and Kyran chillingChilling out at our camp
Swimming, snorkelling and enjoying the water
The birthday boysnorkelling I braved the water at Granite Island
Fishing
Yes, there are crocodiles in the water but the things you do for grandchildren! Actually the water was beautifully clear and shallow so we felt relatively safe. I’m very careful but the water was very inviting.
Sam set the campfire and John cooked sausages on the webber. We had lunch in the shade of the gazebo then Vanessa lit the candles on Tommy’s birthday cake. Tommy was horrified and refused to blow out his candles while we sang ‘Happy Birthday.
A very unhappy birthday for Tommy when Vanessa brought out his cake
Mid afternoon we packed up the boats. We had all had enough sun and sea. On the way home the boys tried some more fishing but had no luck.
John had fun fishing from Kyran’s boat but didn’t catch anythingEnjoying the trip back with Talei and Lincoln
Some of us finished the day with a drink at the Boat Club, and Tommy was able to go home to play with his birthday toys.
Could our trip get any better? We hadn’t even finished unpacking from our Cape Arnhem camping trip when John and I were invited to join a group going to Banu Banu Beach Resort on Bremer Island. As both Kyran and Vanessa were working, we said we would take Tommy with us.
We met up on the boat the next morning for the hour long trip to the island. As always the weather was glorious; every day has been around 30 degrees. The trip over to Bremer Island was lovely.
Banubanu is an eco-sensitive beach retreat built in partnership with the Yolgnu people. It has pristine island swimming, beach combing, there is also a restaurant, bar and small pool. We were there for the day but I was talking to a lady who was glamping for the night with her husband for his 50th birthday, in one of the fivep huts perched on the beach.
The group we were with were celebrating Noel’s 70th birthday. Noel is Kyran’s friend’s dad who was here with his wife, Ann, from Newcastle for a month. Last year they came for a month but covid wrecked their plans and they ended up being here for six months! I heard on the news today that NSW might lock down again so they could be here for another six months! I could think of worse places to be stuck!
Banu Banu Beach Resort Some members of the group enjoying the beachFinally able to go into the waterJohn and Tommy swimmingAnd snorkellingRestaurant and bar on top. Accommodation for glamping top right
After a morning on the beach, we made our way to the restaurant for lunch……and a couple of cocktails.
Pina colada? Don’t mind if I do!Tommy posing with his chicken nuggets
The boat returned about 3pm to take us back to the mainland. What a great day out we had.
Vanessa and Tommy cooked a delicious damper in the camp oven for morning tea. Here is the recipe if you would like to make it too next time you go camping.
Ingredients
3 cups self-raising flour
pinch of salt
80gms butter, chilled and cubed
3/4 cup beer (they used Great Northern)
METHOD
Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Use fingertips to add butter and rub in until like fine breadcrumbs. Add beer. Using a round bladed knife, use a cutting motion until mixture comes together. Add more beer if too dry.
Use your hands to bring mixture together. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface and knead for 1-2 minutes until smooth.
Shape into an 18cm disk and, using a sharp knife dipped into flour, Mark 8 wedges on top.
Dust damper with a little extra flour. Place in pre-heated camp cooker and cover lid with hot coals from the campfire.
Cook for about 30 minutes and wait patiently.
Carefully turn out and enjoy. We enjoyed it warm with butter and jam.
Wow! Another highlight of our trip so far. It was amazing – though bitter-sweet because this is a camping trip Kyran, Vanessa and Tommy were meant to do with Paul, Ben and Zac (John’s son and his two boys) who had to cancel their trip due to covid restrictions. We were not supposed to arrive in Nhulunbuy for a few more days yet.
Anyway, we are here and thrilled to visit Cape Arnhem. It is a very beautiful place with four designated camping spots, each one secluded with its own section of beach, a campfire and a tree swing for kids. While we were there, we had the whole beach to ourselves. Our campsite, number 2, which is referred to as ‘The Penthouse’, was set just above the bay with a path down to the sand, and an amazing view.
our campThe campsites at Cape Arnhem are secluded and well thought out
The track into Cape Arnhem is challenging – at least to us – with a rough track and lots of sand. But we got there after a couple of hours and it was worth it. We set up camp – a tent for Kyran, Vanessa and Tommy, and a double swag for us. Both overlooking the sea. We had the flaps on the swag open and could look at the millions of stars in the sky at night.
The start of the track to Cape Arnhem
Kyran set up the campfire when we first arrived and we kept it going throughout our stay. Vanessa and Tommy made damper in the camp oven for morning tea, and Tommy toasted marshmallows in the evenings.
Toasting marshmallows. Yum!
Kyran works as a skipper in Nhulunbuy so is used to seeing sea creatures on a daily basis. But for the rest of us, watching turtles (two big and one small) in the sea in front of us was magical. I had never seen turtles in the wild before.
Despite the threat of crocodiles and sharks, Kyran went diving. Meantime, Tommy snorkelled in the clear shallow water with Vanessa and Skylar, the dog, watching him. I enjoyed walking the beach and exploring the rock pools, and John tried his hand at fishing.
John and Kyran enjoying some fishingTommy helping Dad fishTommy enjoying the beach
In the afternoon, we drove to the other side of the Cape to Daliwuy Bay, another stunning, deserted beach. The men fished and we walked the beach. It was incredibly peaceful. After a while, we drove along the beach to the river mouth to fish and wander some more.
On our last morning, we took our time packing up and enjoyed the beach again before heading off to Twin Peaks, another bay nearby to do some more paddling.
Twin Peaks BayKyran, Vanessa, Tommy and bumpSkylar enjoying the beach
Unfortunately we got bogged twice on the sandy track and Kyran had to winch us out. Luckily Kyran is a seasoned four wheel driver with all the gadgets for every occasion. He was able to get us out. We even had help from a guy called Morgan, who came up behind us and used his max tracks to help us out. Kyran recognised him from YouTube’s ‘Fishing the Wild’. https://youtube.com/channel/UCK8tX-U9jm0lLEqwYePCArA.
Twin Peaks was another stunning, deserted beach. In fact there is just one beautiful beach after the other here in Arnhem Land. It’s a pity the water is home to crocodiles. But the scenery really takes your breath away.
We had a wonderful couple of nights at Cape Arnhem. It would be hard to beat.
The first map shows how big Australia is compared to other countries. The second map shows the distance from home in Dongara, Western Australia to Nhulunbuy in the Northern Territory where we are now – 4,208kms (2,615 miles) but 6,300kms on our car dashboard. The red circle is home and the yellow one is Nhulunbuy. It took us around five weeks to get here but our plan had been to see a lot more on the way. Our Nissan breaking down and covid upset our plans a bit but we will backtrack when we leave here and do what we missed. We wanted to be here in time for Tommy’s 5th birthday on 15th July and to catch up with John’s son and grandsons (Paul, Ben and Zac) who booked a trip here months ago. Sadly, they have had to cancel due to the latest lockdown; they would have to quarantine for two weeks when they returned home. Hopefully, they can come another time.
So why Nhulunbuy? Kyran, Vanessa and Tommy moved here from Melbourne about 18 months ago. Vanessa accepted a job at the hospital and Kyran picked up work on the mine and as a skipper here which he fits in around Vanessa’s shifts and looking after Tommy, who attends kindergarten. I flew here in April for three weeks to help look after Tommy but John hasn’t been before.
Nhulunbuy sits on the Gove Peninsula and has been home to the Yolnga Aboriginal people for 40,000 years. There is a beautiful art gallery in the Yirrkala community that John, Tommy and I really enjoyed going through.
I was surprised to see there are streets named after Matthew Flinders and Captain Cook. I found out Flinders was circumnavigating this area in 1803. When the Bauxite mine opened here in the 1960s (now owned by Rio Tinto) the township was developed. The current population is about 3,000.
At the time of writing, we have been here four days. We are still cleaning the caravan after driving the Gove track! John has already hit the golf course which is very flat compared to Dongara but very green. In fact Nhulunbuy is very green and tropical. It is surrounded by beautiful beaches but it seems a waste not to be able to swim because of crocodiles (and stingers some months of the year).
Camped at Kyran and Vanessa’sMe with TommyTommy helping clean the van
So far we have checked out three local beaches just a few minutes from Kyran and Vanessa’s house- East Woody, Middle Beach and Wirrawuy.
When we arrived at the Northern Territory border, those going into Western Australia were stopped by police at the checkpoint. (We heard later that no travellers were allowed into the state unless they had a booked camp site including ensuite or, if they had an ensuite van, that they were booked into somewhere with a dump point. Apparently every caravan park from Kununurra to Broome was fully booked). Those of us going into the Territory were not stopped nor were our entry permits checked. We had crossed the first hurdle.
The scenery changes going into the Northern Territory. The Pinkerton Ranges rose to our left with red sandstone cliffs forming a collar around them. Our drive took us high into the ranges. Apart from still wondering if we had made the right decision and what we would do if the track to Nhulunbuy was closed, we enjoyed the drive to Katherine.
Beginning of the Pinkerton Ranges in the background
As we finally drove into Katherine, we finally had range on the radio and caught the 4 o’clock news: the NT government had extended its lock down for another five days. Kyran rang and told us to ‘put our foot down and get onto the track’ if it was still open. And we did. We had still 50kms to the turn off.
As we arrived at the turn off, the sign said the road to Nhulunbuy was open! We drove along the track, which starts off as bitumen, until sunset and then we pulled off to camp for the night. It was pitch black and we could hear the wild buffalo calls from a herd we had seen earlier. Anyway we slept well.
Katherine to Nhulunbuy track
We took off at 8am the next morning, driving the 650 kms of red dirt, sand, corrugations and creek crossings towards Nhulunbuy unaware of what could be happening around the country or even the State. We hoped the covid situation had been a storm in a teacup.
The Central Arnhem Road is a real mix of scrub, mini-rainforest, gum trees and large termite mounds. It isn’t a boring drive as there is so much to see. And the driver has to really focus on the track. We passed wild buffalo and donkeys as well as the usual wallabies. Last time I was on this road we saw a pack of dingoes and I’d have loved to see them again but we didn’t.
A common sight on the trackTermite mounds
We passed several cars, trucks and caravans coming towards Katherine but very few going east with us. Other than the customary wave, we had no interaction with other people until we came across a car with a flat battery. Around it was an Aboriginal family – a woman, two men and about 8 kids! The car was in a pretty bad way but John used his jump leads to try to start it. Meantime the kids were surrounding me asking if I had any chips I could give them. I gave them a large pack and they were delighted.
We stopped to help a family who had been piled into an old, battered carA one-eared wild donkey on the track
We could probably have made it to Gove before dark but …we got a puncture! John wasn’t keen on emptying the whole car and disconnecting the caravan to change the tyre so we got away with stopping every 20kms to put air in it!
More car troubles – a puncture
We limped into Nhulunbuy about 8.30pm. It felt like deja vu crawling in with car problems. Our main concern was that Nhulunbuy was closed off and we wouldn’t be allowed in but all was okay. The talk was that if there were more covid cases, we wouldn’t be allowed to leave – but I was with family so I didn’t really care!
Driving towards Kununurra, the scenery began to change. Cliffs rose out from nowhere, many with large boulders balancing precariously on top of each other.
Although we have been to Kununurra before, we had plans to see Wyndham and have a really good look around the whole area. A young couple I met in Darwin with Kyran in April were camped at the Hidden Valley Caravan Park in Kununurra and recommended it to us. However they were leaving the next day to drive the Gibb River Road. We really wanted to catch up with them, and Jack, being an auto electrician, had said he would check out our car and put in an Anderson plug for us. So we decided to book into Hidden Valley and backtrack to Wyndham the next day.
How many times have I said ‘the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry’? I’m beginning to think the best plan for us on this trip is to not plan at all. We were listening to the sport on the radio when they announced all the Eagles football fans who were turning up to the stadium to watch the game, were being sent home. A short time later we heard Perth and the Peel region were going into Phase 1 covid19 restrictions due to one covid case. It soon followed that NSW had locked down because of a cluster of the Delta strain with over 100 cases; Queensland was probably also going to lockdown due to three cases there, and then the worst news for us, that Darwin and surrounds were closing down for 48 hours due to a positive case at a mine. As the afternoon wore on, we heard that 900 miners from the mine, and close contacts of the case, changed shifts and left to go home to various parts of the country. This wasn’t good. Kyran contacted us and told us to hotfoot it into the NT in case they locked down for longer.
Our only really issue was to decide whether to stay around the Kununurra area as originally planned, or try to get into the Territory and get to Nhulunbuy earlier. First world problems indeed. We organised our NT border entry permits and decided to give it some thought.
Jack fixed the electrics and we settled down beside our van to catch up on travels to date. Jack and Ash had just left the Territory and were heading along the Gibb River Road to Broome and the Dampier Peninsula. Their rig was a camper trailer with all their storage including eskies underneath a roof top tent. It looked great and they were enjoying their year long trip. It was great to see them again.
Overnight the Northern Territory government put up a list of restrictions around the Darwin region including suspending border permits and preventing entry to Aboriginal communities. The whole of Eastern Arnhem Land (where we were going) is an Aboriginal Reserve. Family from WA and NT began messaging us but the messages were mixed. Some said the NT border was closed, some said the Nhulunbuy track was closed; others said it was all still open. After talking to Kyran, we decided to head towards Katherine and see how far we could get. Our fear was the virus would spread and the lockdown extended in time and area preventing us from going in for some time. We really wanted to meet up with John’s son, Paul and grandsons, Ben and Zac who were going to be flying in from Perth for a holiday , and also be in Gove for Tommy’s 5th birthday. So, we packed up and left the caravan park by 8.30am, waving goodbye to Jack and Ash, and started the 500km drive to Katherine.
The drive from Derby to Fitzroy Crossing was pleasantly uneventful. The car drove fine although we had to re-learn what all the switches were for. Being a Volkswagen, everything was back to front and we kept turning on the windscreen wipers instead of the indicators. But if that was all we had to worry about, we were more than happy.
We decided against attempting the Gibb River Road again and instead took the bitumen (Broome to Cairns being The Savannah Way). Although the Lonely Planet describes Fitzroy Crossing as ‘a true outback town…with a large Aboriginal population hailing from Gooniyandi, Bunuba, Walmatjarri and Wangkajunga communities’, we were happy to stop for fuel and keep going.
We camped for the night at a terrific free camp called Ngumpan Cliff Rest Area. We were too late to get a spot on the cliff with a great view, but we were very happy with our camp. Once again, it was very busy but there were plenty of camping spots. We watched a beautiful sunset to the west and a rising supermoon to the east. It was stunning.
Sunset at Ngumpan Cliff free camp
We woke to a freezing cold wind that seems to be gripping most of Western Australia, so we didn’t venture outside until about 8am. After a breakfast of bacon and eggs, we took off towards Halls Creek. It didn’t take long for the day to warm up.
The scenery along this stretch of road is mostly flat with lots of termite mounds of various shapes and sizes. Every so often cliffs and gorges appear out of the blue then it goes flat again. Other than the occasional wallaby, cow and wild cat, we didn’t see much wildlife. Even the many eagles and hawks we saw everywhere around Derby, were becoming less obvious.
Fitzroy Crossing to Halls Creek is very rugged and flat
Halls Creek is another outback town. It sits on the edge of the Great Sandy Desert and is home to the Aboriginal people from the communities of Kija, Jaru and Gooniyandi. Apparently gold was discovered there around 1885 so it was once a bustling town. Again, it wasn’t a town we felt like exploring for long. So, after fuelling up and buying groceries from the supermarket, we took off to find a camp for the night. (I must say, I was very surprised at how well stocked the IGA was in Halls Creek, especially with nice, fresh looking fruit and veg).
A couple of hours later, we pulled into Leycester Rest Area, another great free campsite.
Leycester Free camp
As I mentioned, we have done some of the Kimberley before so have by-passed some great spots such as Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge. If we had not had car trouble on the rough roads, we would have taken time to see these places again. However, at the moment we are playing it safe. We did, however, plan to do a tour of the Mimbi Caves but it was closed on the day we came through. We also wanted to have another look at the Bungle Bungles as we thought they were spectacular last time. But another camper told us that the road in was in a very bad state at the moment. So that is not looking good either.
I use this stool every day! John laughed at me when I bought it. I’m not very tall and I use it to secure the clips on our pop top. I’ve also used it to look for things in the boot, tie a washing line to a tree and it has many other uses. John has even had to borrow it to check our aerial.
Kindle (ebooks)
A Kindle (front) takes up so much less space (and weight) although we occasionally read a real book. My daughter Tayler has given me some great thin and miniature books which are great to take camping too
Much as we love exploring second hand book shops, our kindles are a God-send. I downloaded some books before I left home and tend to download more when we have power and Wi-Fi. Obviously carrying books adds to weight in the van and takes up valuable space whereas a kindle is light and easy to store. Our kindles have backlights so we don’t need to have our van lights on which saves on our solar. Another bonus is one of us being able to read in the dark without disturbing the other. And a kindle stores thousands of books that you can re-read. We do keep a few real books which we swap over at caravan parks or book exchanges.
Door mat (thanks Richard)
A small piece of artificial grass on the step of the caravan, and another piece on the ground as a doormat has helped to keep the red dirt at bay. So glad we have it.
Containers (thanks Sam)
My good friend, Sam, gave me this Ever Eco container as a gift and it’s been great. So much so that I bought another one from Seed and Sprout. I keep them in a picnic basket on the back seat of the car within reach. I fill them with nuts, dried fruits and so on to snack on in the car. They’re awesome.
String bags
These have been so handy! I brought three with us and have used them all. One hangs in the toilet with loo paper in it. The other two hang near the kitchen, one with fruit, the other with veg. I can see what veges we have when organising dinner or going shopping, and they have air circulating.
Seed and Sprout tins
They save space when not in use by fitting inside each other
Great for keeping most things in. I have pasta in one and use others for leftovers. Light, easy to pack and clean, don’t topple over when we are on corrugations so good for liquids. I store them in cupboard, fridge or freezer. And they fit inside each other when not being used, saving more space.
Squashy containers, bucket and basin
Basin up
These fold down to save space and you just pop them up when you need to use them.
8. Wine glasses
No breakages with these stainless steel wine glasses. My daughter, Tayler bought us these from K-mart. We use them for red wine. For white wine, I use this which keeps it icy cold.
9. Yeti coffee cups with lids
We use these cups in the car and they keep our coffee hot for hours and hours. Awesome. Thanks Kyran and Vanessa for the recommendation!
10. Cutlery
I bought these two tins of cutlery from Tyfords and wasn’t sure if it was a good idea. Turns out it was. Each tin contains one knife, fork, spoon, straw and chop sticks. We have used them every day. They pack away neatly and they don’t get lost. It’s so much easier just using our own cutlery if we happen to be eating with people we meet.
I heard it said the first day we returned to Derby (with our sick car) that people come to town and never leave. I was told that ‘you don’t pick Derby, it picks you’. And, most worrying, was being told that the last people to break down in Derby were still there two years later. After ten days in town trying to organise another vehicle, I really started to fear we would be there for ever. People started making comments like ‘rent is very expensive here, you need to buy’.
Now let me first make it clear that, after ten days, we could understand the appeal of Derby. Everyone was kind and helpful; we discovered a great cafe that sold the best coffee, scones, jam and cream (The Tasty Cafe); we were invited to dinner at the fabulous Jila Gallery Cafe; we loved the two art galleries (Norval and Mowanjum); and we found the history fascinating, if disturbing. Yes, Derby has a lot to offer that you don’t tend to see as you drive through. John even loved the golf course, but he had to check it out a few times to be sure!
I have already mentioned the kindness of Liz and Pete who were very generous in encouraging us to stay at their place for as long as we wanted. We loved it there! Other friends, Anne and Pete Brown took us out for dinner to Jila and what a great night we had! It was packed and everyone knew each other. We were made so welcome and had a real glimpse into the social life here. In fact, Anne told me she could socialise every day if she wasn’t so busy with her beautiful b and b.
On day ten, we got a call to collect the car (a Volkswagen Amorok) we had bought after the Nissan was towed back to Perth. We had had to have electric brakes installed. Much as we loved Derby, we were keen to get moving and see more of the country. So we said our goodbyes to Liz and Pete and drove off in the direction of Fitzroy Crossing hoping that our car troubles were well and truly behind us.
We hired a little car to get around Derby while we were organising to buy another car to tow the caravan. We took advantage of this by checking out the history of the town.
Like most old Australian towns, it has a dark past. Although we had visited ‘The Boab Prison Tree’ before, we were drawn back to have another look. According to myth, the trunk of this tree was used in the 1880s and 1890s as a temporary prison for Aboriginal prisoners. I don’t believe there is any actual evidence about this so I don’t know if it’s true. Certainly it refers to this in signs at the tree.
The Boab Prison Tree, DerbyIt is said that Aboriginal prisoners were held here temporarilyThis sign makes me laugh – if you can’t respect the Aboriginal Heritage Act and stay out of the tree, then maybe you should read the last line!
We also visited the old Derby Jail in the middle of town which was very depressing. This was where Aboriginal prisoners were held. No explanation needed.
The old Derby Jail
John has never really understood my interest in cemeteries, particularly pioneer cemeteries. I can spend hours reading the inscriptions on the gravestones, trying to imagine how tough their lives were. I dragged John along to the Derby Pioneer Cemetery but I returned on my own the next day when I didn’t have John jiggling the car keys. I browsed the old gravestones but I was particularly looking for one – that of William Richardson. I remembered hearing the story of Jandamarra (aka Pigeon) in Aboriginal Studies at university and again on our Kimberley Wild trip inside Tunnel Creek where he died. Jandamarra was a young Aboriginal man who led uprisings against the Europeans. Before this though he worked alongside William Richardson as his tracker but turned against him, shooting him dead in 1894.
Flannerys' Footprints 