A Paws in our Travels!

Here we are half way through February and we are still in East Arnhem Land, and enjoying every minute. When we set out on this trip last May, we thought we would be slowly making our way back home towards Western Australia by now. We live in an unpredictable world at the moment and covid19 has impacted our trip – mostly in a good way. We made the decision to hunker down in Nhulunbuy for the wet season and it was a good decision having so much time with family. Tayler finally got home last week. We were all very grateful for the extra time we had with her, especially Tommy who had lots of fun with her planting seeds, making a worm farm and collecting tadpoles amongst other things. I think she was sad to leave us but happy to return to her own life and her studies. As she said ‘when could I ever take a two month holiday in real life?’ Mind you when her flight home was delayed by over an hour, we all wondered if she would ever get back home.

Tommy was hoping the plane wouldn’t leave and Tayler could stay!

A few days before Tayler left, a group of us planned a trip to the Granite Islands for a barbecue. It would be an ‘au revoir’ to Tayler. There were four boatloads of us but no Tayler; she woke up that morning with a sore throat. She missed out on a lovely afternoon but Kyran was good enough to take her back out there in the boat when she recovered.

We did, however, manage to have lunch at Latitude with Tayler the day before she left. Vanessa, myself and the children joined her for some cocktails and a meal, and Tommy swam in the pool. It was lovely.

We are currently in our third housesit and we move into another next week. We thought that might be the last and, if the track out was driveable, we would move on to Far North Queensland. However, someone we recently house-sat for asked us again for ten days over Easter. I’m happy to delay leaving Tommy and Joey for as long as possible but we decided to stay because I’m getting so much relief work at school here. With covid rife in town and spreading quickly through school, I should continue to get lots of work. Providing I stay well of course. Things change almost daily but our new plan is to leave Nhulunbuy around 20th April. Kyran, Vanessa and the boys are going to drive the track with us and try out their new camper trailer which should be fun. We will head to Far North Queensland. We’d like to go as far north as Cape York (which I did in 1989) but we will see how brave we are nearer the time.

I’ve always said I’d never have another dog, the main reason being it’s devastating when they die. The other reason is that I’ve never wanted the responsibility and I’ve always wanted to be free to travel. During our time of housesitting, we’ve had to look after some dogs. So far there have been a cavoodle named Harry, two bull mastiffs called Remy and Jayda, and we looked after a beautiful Cavalier King Charles/Cocker Spaniel pup, Sunny, for a few hours. We’ve also spent quite a bit of time with Tommy’s dog, Skylar. We take her to the beach often and she usually accompanies on day trips and camping expeditions . When I worked in the special education class of the high school here, one of the teachers brought in Nala and Max, his Golden Labrador and German Shepherd for the day. The day turned into a week because the students loved them. So did we adults. For once the kids were calm, only fighting over whose turn it was to walk the dogs!

Harry
Sunny
Remy and Jayda
Oops. I forgot to close the toilet door last night!
Nala and Max, visitors to the classroom!
Skylar eenjoying the beach

We have some more housesits with dogs coming up and one with a dog and a cat. I have to say I have really enjoyed the dogs. They have all been great company and mostly well behaved. We were both a little hesitant about our ten days with the bull mastiffs (Remy and Jayda) but they were well trained and not at all aggressive. John has always agreed with me about not having a pet, however, after spending so much time looking after dogs, I think both of us could be open to the idea when we return home to WA. We can’t see ourselves doing any more long trips, and John has said his days of travelling overseas are over. So who knows? We won’t rule it out.

A Crazy Festive Season in the Tropics

It’s hard to believe we have been in Nhulunbuy for two months! We spent the first couple of weeks camped at the Boat Club until we could move into a housesit which we organised for December and January. It was lovely at the Boat Club. The view is amazing, and it was nice to be able to pop next door for dinner or a drink.

Our view while camping at Gove Boat Club

Although we were a bit sad to move out of the Boat Club, it was certainly sensible to move into the house as every day was getting hotter and more humid. The air conditioning in every room would be a Godsend. And, as luck would have it, the house is very close to the golf course and not far from Kyran and Vanessa’s. Not only that but our daughter, Tayler decided to come and visit us for three weeks over the festive season from Perth and there is a bedroom for her in the house.

Almost as soon as we arrived back in Nhulunbuy I was asked to return to the school to do some relief teaching. I worked again in the special education section until the end of the school year. I enjoyed working there, particularly with the indigenous students. One, who was very musical, showed me a picture of his grandfather, a member of Yothu Yindi, and his father, singer with King Stingray. I love both those groups!

I have to say up front that the couple of weeks over Christmas and New Year were a bit like a roller coaster ride. And it was all to do with the coronavirus. The first thing that happened was just after Tayler arrived. She received a message from Virgin to say her flight home from Darwin to Perth on 4 January had been cancelled due to ‘the ongoing impact of Covid’. Although the message said there were no other flights, she was able to re-book for 5 January. As there was no connecting flight from Gove, it meant she had to book and pay for a hotel in Darwin for a night but she was okay with that. So we relaxed and began cooking and decorating for Christmas.

Just before Christmas Day, we heard on the news that the Delta variant of Covid had infiltrated Western Australia despite their very tight restrictions. The Premier, Mark McGowan, made an announcement that all West Australians who were interstate had to return home by Boxing Day or they would be not be allowed entry into WA. Tayler was very upset as she had just arrived and we had not had Christmas as a family for some years. She thought about it and we talked about her options – not many actually. In the end she decided to enjoy Christmas and New Year with us, and apply for an exemption. If it wasn’t granted, she would stay and work remotely for a couple of weeks until she could return home.

Early on Christmas morning, we were invited over to Kyran and Vanessa’s house to watch Tommy open his presents. What a delight that was. Children certainly make Christmas. The espresso martinis were also delightful. Thank you Vanessa! It was a lovely morning, one I’d been looking forward to for a long time. Tommy, being five, was very excited but Joey, just a few weeks old, was completely oblivious to the fact that Santa Claus had been.

Kyran and Vanessa’s friends here have been very good to us while we have been in Nhulunbuy. As a way of saying thanks, we had invited them to have Christmas lunch with us. All of them have jobs and/or children so we hoped to save them having to cook and clear up on Christmas Day. So around 18 of us gathered for lunch in the entertainment area outside under the threat of a cyclone. The monsoonal rain and wind gave us relief from the usual heat and humidity, and we all managed to stay dry (other than the children who had fun on the slippery slide in the rain). So much for our guests not cooking; everyone arrived laden with food and drinks. We had so much to eat!

It was a very special Christmas for me being with my children and grandchildren.

The next little bump came just during lunch when a phone message alerted us that Covid had been found in the sewerage in Nhulunbuy. This was the first indication that the virus might be coming closer to us. The only people at lunch who were a little worried were Kylie and Matty because they were flying to Cairns on Boxing Day for a week with their two children. Tayler was also a bit worried that this might make things more difficult for her getting home. Nevertheless, we continued with our celebrations and had a lovely Christmas Day. As everyone left to go home we wished Kylie, Matty and children a lovely holiday in Cairns; John made plans to take them to the airport, and we made arrangements for everyone to come back on Boxing Day for lunch as we had so much food left over. (The latter never happened as everyone was far too tired the next day)!

New Year’s Eve on the beach

On Hogmanay/New Years Eve, the first positive Covid case was discovered in town. The NT government mandated the wearing of masks until further notice, and the only pub in town was deemed an exposure site and closed. We spent the evening with friends at the local beach having a sausage sizzle around a campfire. It was a pleasant way to enjoy the last evening of a what was a difficult year for many.

2022 started well. Tayler’s G2G exemption to WA was approved which was a relief for her. Most businesses in town were closed for a few days but we headed out of town on some four wheel drive tracks to enjoy the bush and the beach. It was hot and humid but great fun. The kids rode quadbikes and motorbikes near Latram River and the big boys did some shooting and fishing. They didn’t catch any fish and only shot at a tin.


Heading out towards Latram River
Giddy River

Tommy riding his quadbike

We also spent lots of time with Tommy, watching Christmas movies before and after Christmas, taking Skylar to the beach for a run, and going to the local pool for a swim (where we were often the only ones there).

The next problem happened on the Sunday after New Year (two days before Tayler was due to fly home) when a group of us enjoyed a terrific few hours at Little Bondi Beach. It was a hot day but we couldn’t swim because of crocodiles and stingers. However, Kelly and Patrick brought along a gazebo for shade and Tommy was happy looking for shells and crabs on the beach.

Little Bondi

Around 4.30pm we reluctantly decided to pack up and head home. Kyran rang Kylie as she, Matty and the children were due home from their holiday in Cairns. It turned out a bird had hit the engine of their plane and they’d been diverted to Darwin. They had just arrived back in Gove but had missed their lift. Kyran asked us all if we’d mind going home via the airport to help them out. We managed to fit the four of them and their luggage into our three cars. We drove them home and hugged them ‘happy new year’. The next morning they tested positive for Covid.

What a shock! Although we had all been vaccinated and Kylie and Matty wore masks in the car, we all had to have a Covid test in 3 days. (We had all had one a few days before because of the sewerage issue). Kyran, Kellie and Patrick were told to isolate for seven days by their employers and Tayler had to update her Good2Go pass into Western Australia. Her pass was immediately revoked. She had to cancel both flights and her hotel booking, not to mention organise her work, study and pets at home. She cannot return home for at least two weeks then has to quarantine for two weeks in her house. This is because she is considered a ‘close contact’ by Western Australia but only a ‘casual contact’ in Northern Territory. In fact we were told by authorities that we didn’t have to isolate because we were only in the car for about 30 minutes!

So far it looks like we are all fine although a couple of us are still awaiting test results. Even though we are not required to isolate, we have all stayed home as much as possible. The saddest part of the whole experience was that Kylie and Matty, who were fully vaccinated, got quite sick although the children have been fine so far. They were prepared to isolate at home for the fourteen days but the government had other ideas. Even though they were quite sick, they drove them back to the airport to catch a charter flight to the Howard Springs Quarantine Centre in Darwin. When they arrived at the airport in Gove, there were technical issues with the plane so they were driven back home again then collected the next day and taken to Darwin. They are now camped in a little unit within the Quarantine Centre with only one bed for the four of them! Since we found out they have Covid, we have all felt incredibly sorry for them being dragged around like this while unwell. Ironically they feel far more sorry about putting us through the worry of possibly having Covid and continue to apologise for asking us to collect them from the airport in the first place. This is our world now. We have been so safe and protected first by living in Australia and particularly Western Australia and then staying in the Northern Territory. This country, and especially these two States have come through the past couple of years unscathed. Who would have thought a lovely young family from this remote town in East Arnhem would have a week in Cairns only to return to this nightmare? As of today, the Northern Territory is in ‘lockout’ and Virgin has cancelled all flights to Perth and Melbourne until February. Who knows when Tayler will be able to return to her own life?

On Christmas Day we agreed not to use any “c” words. In particular Covid and cyclones (the latter didn’t eventuate) because everyone was tired of hearing about them so I will finish on another topic, also a little sad. David Gulpilil, a wonderful, indigenous actor and dancer, passed away recently. He is from this area and, after a long trek home, his body arrived in Gove today. As part of the traditional ceremony, Gulpilil’s coffin was to be driven through town with his family, friends and fans walking behind. As a fan of his I wanted to join the procession but the ‘c’ word put an end to the procession. If you are not familiar with David Gulpilil’s films, do yourself a favour and watch them. “Charlie’s Country” his last film, is terrific. I am going to binge on his others such as the original Storm Boy, Walkabout, Rabbitproof Fence, My Name is Gulpilil, The Tracker, Goldstone and others.

As I said, the last couple of weeks have been crazy. Hopefully everything will settle down. We can’t complain about the Covid situation because, for the last two years we have been lucky enough to escape it. Our housesit ends on 29 January when we think we have another couple set up for February. Every cloud has a silver lining; ours is that we can spend more time with Tayler and she gets to spend more special time with her nephews, Tommy and Joey.

You can check out any time you like, but you may never leave..

When we arrived at the Northern Territory border, those going into Western Australia were stopped by police at the checkpoint. (We heard later that no travellers were allowed into the state unless they had a booked camp site including ensuite or, if they had an ensuite van, that they were booked into somewhere with a dump point. Apparently every caravan park from Kununurra to Broome was fully booked).  Those of us going into the Territory were not stopped nor were our entry permits checked. We had crossed the first hurdle.

The scenery changes going into the Northern Territory.  The Pinkerton Ranges rose to our left with red sandstone cliffs forming a collar around them. Our drive took us high into the ranges. Apart from still wondering if we had made the right decision and what we would do if the track to Nhulunbuy was closed, we enjoyed the drive to Katherine.

Beginning of the Pinkerton Ranges in the background

As we finally drove into Katherine, we finally had range on the radio and caught the 4 o’clock news: the NT government had extended its lock down for another five days. Kyran rang and told us to ‘put our foot down and get onto the track’ if it was still open. And we did. We had still 50kms to the turn off.

As we arrived at the turn off, the sign said the road to Nhulunbuy was open!  We drove along the track, which starts off as bitumen,  until sunset and then we pulled off to camp for the night. It was pitch black and we could hear the wild buffalo calls from a herd we had seen earlier. Anyway we slept well.

Katherine to Nhulunbuy track

We took off at 8am the next morning, driving the 650 kms of red dirt, sand, corrugations and creek crossings towards Nhulunbuy unaware of what could be happening around the country or even the State.  We hoped the covid situation had been a storm in a teacup.

The Central Arnhem Road is a real mix of scrub, mini-rainforest, gum trees and large termite mounds. It isn’t a boring drive as there is so much to see. And the driver has to really focus on the track. We passed wild buffalo and donkeys as well as the usual wallabies. Last time I was on this road we saw a pack of dingoes and I’d have loved to see them again but we didn’t.

A common sight on the track
Termite mounds

We passed several cars, trucks and caravans coming towards Katherine but very few going east with us. Other than the customary wave, we had no interaction with other people until we came across a car with a flat battery. Around it was an Aboriginal family – a woman, two men and about 8 kids!  The car was in a pretty bad way but John used his jump leads to try to start it. Meantime the kids were surrounding me asking if I had any chips I could give them. I gave them a large pack and they were delighted.

We stopped to help a family who had been piled into an old, battered car
A one-eared wild donkey on the track

We could probably have made it to Gove before dark but …we got a puncture! John wasn’t keen on emptying the whole car and disconnecting the caravan to change the tyre so we got away with stopping every 20kms to put air in it!  

More car troubles – a puncture

We limped into Nhulunbuy about 8.30pm. It felt like deja vu crawling in with car problems. Our main concern was that Nhulunbuy was closed off and we wouldn’t be allowed in but all was okay.  The talk was that if there were more covid cases, we wouldn’t be allowed to leave – but I was with family so I didn’t really care!