Wet, Wet, Wet

Our plan was to drive out of Nhulunbuy after Kyran’s birthday and Easter. We booked a campsite at Blue Mud Bay for four nights with the idea of camping there with Kyran, Vanessa and the boys before leaving them to head towards Far North Queensland. However, the rain put an end to that. Well not really. We have just postponed it. We had everything packed up and ready to leave: we had completed our last housesit, I had finished working at the school, our big shop had been done, the car was topped up with fuel, the caravan made ready – but the rain didn’t stop.

Getting out of here involves driving ‘the track’. The Central Arnhem Road, as I’ve said before, crosses Aboriginal owned land for most of its 663 kms (412 miles), and road conditions vary with most of it unsealed and prone to seasonal flooding. And this is the Wet Season. And it’s flooded. 1.4 metres at some points.

The Track yesterday. Photo courtesy of Sam Dentith

Taking our caravan, Kyran and Vanessa’s camper trailer, a baby and a five year old child along a flooded dirt track for several hours did not seem sensible so we have rebooked Blue Mud Bay for the end of April and hope the rain has eased.

I was a bit disappointed that we were unable to go camping. None of us has been to Blue Mud Bay and it’s said to be beautiful. Then I remembered that time is not my enemy any more. We have plenty time. And, of course, I get more time with Tommy and Joey.

Another reason I am not disappointed is because there is always something interesting happening in Gove. Since my last post there have been a few more birthdays. John’s was first and we splashed out on another beautiful painting by Gayili and Mary. Once again the paint was still drying when we collected it.

I organised with one of our Nhulunbuy ‘family’, Drew, to take John out fishing on his birthday. They had a great morning.

John enjoyed his birthday. But a birthday isn’t a birthday without cake. Vanessa and Tommy made the birthday cake, and Tommy helped John blow out the candles.

I was invited to Tommy’s friend, Evie’s fourth birthday at Latram River. We had a lovely afternoon. I had never been to Latram before and it was so nice; the perfect, safe place for children to splash around and have fun. No crocodiles! And, of course, Kylie made another incredible birthday cake.

Kyran was recovering from covid on his birthday but we managed a birthday cake when he was out of isolation. Joey loved the light from the candles.

Another couple of interesting things happened that are probably unique to the Territory. During the last week of Term, the Yolngu students caught and cooked a Magpie Goose for lunch! I was tempted to taste it but I didn’t. I was told it tastes a bit like duck.

I also had the chance to take a few students to look through the police station and lock up alongside the resident policewoman at school, Kiara. It was really interesting.

Sam and Talei, other members of our Nhulunbuy family, have been learning to weave baskets courtesy of some of the indigenous ladies. They explained the long process of finding and picking pandanus leaves, drying them, dyeing them and weaving them. So much work goes into them and I decided I wanted to buy one to take home to WA. Sam took Vanessa and I out to meet a lady in Ski Beach who makes beautiful wall hangings and baskets. She was almost out of pandanus leaves so we said we would organise a time to take her out to collect some.

Janet with one of her woven wall hangings

Unfortunately, the weather has been too wet to go out picking leaves so I bought a basket from the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre in Yirrkala which I love. It came with a biography of the artist so I was very happy. Now that we have been delayed here, we might still get a chance to help find leaves. Who knows?

One of our favourite things to do is have a campfire at the beach. It’s such a social occasion and very relaxing. We took the chance to gather at Middle Beach to acknowledge everybody’s birthdays and say au revoir to a few Nhulunbuy family members that we thought would be away when we drove out of town.

When I said goodbye to the staff and students at the high school, I didn’t think I’d be back there at all never mind the first day after the holidays! I can work every day here until we leave. I’m not complaining . I don’t mind as it helps pay for our trip. As with all schools I’ve worked in, the staff are great and so are many of the students.

Carlee, Laila and Alesha from school and below, some of the kids I’ll miss

If we are going to be rained in then staying in Nhulunbuy is a great option. The rain comes down heavy in between lovely sunshine and the temperature has hovered around 30 degrees. So we often head down to East Woody or Middle Beach with Tommy and Skylar (and sometimes Evie and Sunny too) to collect shells and look for hermit crabs. When it’s too wet, Tommy and I might go to the library or toy library, or we all might head out to Latitude 12 for a coffee or lunch.

Yes, if we have to wait out the rain anywhere, we are very happy it is here in Gove!

Just another day in Nhulunbuy

For such a remote little place, there is plenty to do here in Nhulunbuy, particularly if you enjoy the beach. Not being able to swim is not really a problem for me as I’m not much of a swimmer. John was always a great swimmer but says his days for swimming are over. Those who have lived here a while are quite blase about crocodiles. They go to beaches and water holes where the water is fairly clear- and they send the dogs in first believing the crocs will always go for the dogs before people! We have swum at Bremer and Granite Islands as the water was very clear and fairly shallow. Tommy can splash around at a few others – Turtle Beach is one – where the water is clear and shallow. Recently the incoming tide at East Woody has formed a very safe little water hole that the kids can enjoy.

East Woody Beach


Kyran tells me there are amazing fish to catch here including Red Emperor, Tuna, Spanish Mackerel, Coral Trout and Barramundi just to mention a few – plus mud crabs. I have never been into fishing but, over the last few days, John and I have taken Tommy out to a few beaches to fish. We haven’t caught anything and we are just having some fun but I actually really enjoyed it. It could be the first time ever that I am not watching the clock or on a time limit and I think that is the difference. I don’t have to be anywhere at any time and what a great feeling that is. Throwing a rod into the sea over and over again, knowing (and probably hoping) I won ‘t catch anything is something I would never have contemplated before; time was too short. Now it is a lovely way to pass the time. And a great thing to do with Tommy. He loves it.



Last week, John was invited out fishing with Drew, a friend of Kyran’s, and Aiden on Drew’s boat. They left around 5.30am and returned at lunchtime. Although they didn’t do as well as they’d hoped, John had a terrific time. Between them they caught some fish including a Coral Trout and a Trevally but threw back lots that were undersized.

John had a great morning fishing with Drew and Aiden

While I’ve been enjoying time with Tommy, John has been spending an afternoon a week playing golf and is becoming one of the regulars at the Gove Golf Club.

Gove Golf Club

In case fishing and golf weren’t enough, Kyran took John to the local Gun Range for a couple of hours, and he had a great time there. He may become a regular there too!


John trying his hand at shooting at the local gun range

There is certainly no shortage of fun to be had here in Nhulunbuy. Most people spend their free time camping, fishing and at the beach, but there are lots of other ways to pass the time. I can absolutely see why people love living here.