After some false starts, the time has come to leave our beautiful family and our new friends in Nhulunbuy. To say our time here has been wonderful is an understatement. We have had the most fabulous experiences and met terrific people, and I’ve tried to share most of these on this blog. The most precious time, of course, was watching Joey grow from a brand new baby to a happy, chubby six months old, as well as having so much quality time with Tommy.
Although the covid rules and lock downs prevented Tayler from going back home to Perth at the end of her three weeks holiday with us at Christmas, it was a huge bonus for us to have the extra six weeks with her and for me to have my side of the family all together.
The last ten days since we were supposed to leave, have been interesting. The heavy rain brought two crocodiles to the golf course! When the course opened, golfers had to battle sodden greens and cane toads as well as looking out for crocs! (Photos courtesy of Jane Utting)
We had a couple of lovely evenings out. First to the Golf Club for dinner with some of the teachers and then to the Boat Club with Kyran, Vanessa and boys. Sunsets on both nights were beautiful.
Gove Golf ClubGove Boat Club
It was a lovely way to end our time in Gove but it was time to move on.
Our plan was to drive out of Nhulunbuy after Kyran’s birthday and Easter. We booked a campsite at Blue Mud Bay for four nights with the idea of camping there with Kyran, Vanessa and the boys before leaving them to head towards Far North Queensland. However, the rain put an end to that. Well not really. We have just postponed it. We had everything packed up and ready to leave: we had completed our last housesit, I had finished working at the school, our big shop had been done, the car was topped up with fuel, the caravan made ready – but the rain didn’t stop.
Getting out of here involves driving ‘the track’. The Central Arnhem Road, as I’ve said before, crosses Aboriginal owned land for most of its 663 kms (412 miles), and road conditions vary with most of it unsealed and prone to seasonal flooding. And this is the Wet Season. And it’s flooded. 1.4 metres at some points.
The Track yesterday. Photo courtesy of Sam Dentith
Taking our caravan, Kyran and Vanessa’s camper trailer, a baby and a five year old child along a flooded dirt track for several hours did not seem sensible so we have rebooked Blue Mud Bay for the end of April and hope the rain has eased.
I was a bit disappointed that we were unable to go camping. None of us has been to Blue Mud Bay and it’s said to be beautiful. Then I remembered that time is not my enemy any more. We have plenty time. And, of course, I get more time with Tommy and Joey.
Another reason I am not disappointed is because there is always something interesting happening in Gove. Since my last post there have been a few more birthdays. John’s was first and we splashed out on another beautiful painting by Gayili and Mary. Once again the paint was still drying when we collected it.
I organised with one of our Nhulunbuy ‘family’, Drew, to take John out fishing on his birthday. They had a great morning.
John enjoyed his birthday. But a birthday isn’t a birthday without cake. Vanessa and Tommy made the birthday cake, and Tommy helped John blow out the candles.
I was invited to Tommy’s friend, Evie’s fourth birthday at Latram River. We had a lovely afternoon. I had never been to Latram before and it was so nice; the perfect, safe place for children to splash around and have fun. No crocodiles! And, of course, Kylie made another incredible birthday cake.
Kyran was recovering from covid on his birthday but we managed a birthday cake when he was out of isolation. Joey loved the light from the candles.
Another couple of interesting things happened that are probably unique to the Territory. During the last week of Term, the Yolngu students caught and cooked a Magpie Goose for lunch! I was tempted to taste it but I didn’t. I was told it tastes a bit like duck.
Mikey enjoying the Magpie Goose
I also had the chance to take a few students to look through the police station and lock up alongside the resident policewoman at school, Kiara. It was really interesting.
Sam and Talei, other members of our Nhulunbuy family, have been learning to weave baskets courtesy of some of the indigenous ladies. They explained the long process of finding and picking pandanus leaves, drying them, dyeing them and weaving them. So much work goes into them and I decided I wanted to buy one to take home to WA. Sam took Vanessa and I out to meet a lady in Ski Beach who makes beautiful wall hangings and baskets. She was almost out of pandanus leaves so we said we would organise a time to take her out to collect some.
Janet with one of her woven wall hangings
Unfortunately, the weather has been too wet to go out picking leaves so I bought a basket from the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre in Yirrkala which I love. It came with a biography of the artist so I was very happy. Now that we have been delayed here, we might still get a chance to help find leaves. Who knows?
One of our favourite things to do is have a campfire at the beach. It’s such a social occasion and very relaxing. We took the chance to gather at Middle Beach to acknowledge everybody’s birthdays and say au revoir to a few Nhulunbuy family members that we thought would be away when we drove out of town.
When I said goodbye to the staff and students at the high school, I didn’t think I’d be back there at all never mind the first day after the holidays! I can work every day here until we leave. I’m not complaining . I don’t mind as it helps pay for our trip. As with all schools I’ve worked in, the staff are great and so are many of the students.
Carlee, Laila and Alesha from school and below, some of the kids I’ll miss
If we are going to be rained in then staying in Nhulunbuy is a great option. The rain comes down heavy in between lovely sunshine and the temperature has hovered around 30 degrees. So we often head down to East Woody or Middle Beach with Tommy and Skylar (and sometimes Evie and Sunny too) to collect shells and look for hermit crabs. When it’s too wet, Tommy and I might go to the library or toy library, or we all might head out to Latitude 12 for a coffee or lunch.
East Woody BeachWirrawuy Beach At the local library
Yes, if we have to wait out the rain anywhere, we are very happy it is here in Gove!
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, the track from the Stuart Highway to Nhulunbuy is around 600kms of gravel, corrugations, sand, mud, creeks and a little bit of bitumen. Its hard to gauge how difficult the drive will be but we planned to take two or three days and camp on the way. As it was, the track wasn’t too bad other than a couple of hundred kilometres around the community of Bulman. Early evening on day one, we camped on a gravel pit off the track but were pestered by flies. We had to have a cold dinner inside the van. As is often the case, we watched a stunning sunset before going to bed and reading. We always sleep so well with complete silence outside and it’s lovely to be awakened by the birds singing.
I really love the track particularly when we see buffalo and wild donkeys. I’m still hoping to see dingoes again. We have only seen one this trip but on another road (cant remember where!)
Wild donkeys are a regular site on the trackSo are buffalo
We arrived in Nhulunbuy late afternoon of day two and made our way to the Gove Boat Club to camp. It’s a lovely campsite attached to the boat club with amazing views over the sea. Being next to the club is a bit of a trap as it has great meals and inexpensive drinks! We will stay here until the end of the month when we are house sitting for December and January. I advised the local high school, that I am available for relief teaching again and they offered me work for the rest of the school year. That will certainly help our finances.
Sunset from our caravan at Gove Boat Club
The reason we have returned to Nhulunbuy (apart from the fact that we like it), is to spend more time with family. Kyran and Vanessa have had another baby boy called Joey born early November so we are enjoying time with him and Tommy.
As our visit to Nhulunbuy drew to an end, we started to pack up to leave. I finished relief teaching at the local school and we went shopping for supplies we’d need on the track. There aren’t that many shops in town – there’s mainly Woolworths, the newsagent, chemist, tackle shop and butcher.
But there was still fun to be had. Kyran insisted I have a go on his quad bike. I didn’t go very far, mainly because Skylar kept running in front of me .
We still walked the beaches with Tommy and Skylar although the stingers had moved in and we kept further away from water.
East Woody Beach
Gove Airport had an open day and John, Kyran, Tommy and I went along. They had a couple of small aeroplanes open for us to check out. They also demonstrated how they load patients on stretchers into the plane as part of Care Flight which services the small aboriginal communities in the Top End and is responsible for transferring patients from Gove Hospital to Darwin. It was a really interesting morning. Tommy had fun making paper aeroplanes, then we finished off by having a hot doģ and cold drink to support their cause.
Glen called around the day before we left to tell us the best spots to visit in Lichfield and Kakadu as that’s where we are off to next and he and his family had just come back. Later on Sam, Drew, Talei and Lincoln arrived, followed by Matty, Kylie, Evie and Billy. We ordered pizzas, lit a campfire and had a few drinks to say au revoir. It was a lovely way to end a fantastic stay in Nhulunbuy and typical of Kyran, Vanessa and their friends who have all been so generous with their time and their knowledge since we arrived at the beginning of July.
We left the next morning amidst cuddles and kisses from Tommy. We were excited to head off to new places but so sad to leave Kyran, Vanessa and Tommy, who have been wonderful hosts.
I’ve mentioned before the terrific social life here in Nhulunbuy. With a population of around 3,300, most people work for Rio, at the hospital or various schools and many have young families. So there is always something happening.
Kyran’s friend Drew suggested prawns and beers at the beach one evening and five or six families turned up with food, drinks, camp chairs and eskies. The adults built a camp fire and the children played on the beach. We were in time for a beautiful sunset.
Middle Beach at sunsetFour or five families turned up for prawns and beer at Middle Beach
What a great evening we had. There’s nothing better than eating, drinking and chatting around a camp fire at sunset! And this is a regular past time here. The other evening when just Kyran, Vanessa, Tommy, John and I had fish and chips on the beach, we watched some teenagers catch small sharks from the beach for their You Tube channel (they put them back). This time, we watched a dugong swim up and down just where we were sitting.
John, Tommy and I enjoying sunset
When it was dark, the children played with sparklers then toasted marshmallows on the camp fire. They would all have slept well.
We have been here in Nhulunbuy for four weeks now and expect to be here for another four. We are spending the time with family as we don’t see them very often. Before the Northern Territory, they lived in Victoria. Tommy was born in Melbourne. As I’ve mentioned before, Vanessa is a nurse at the hospital and Kyran works several casual jobs – at the mine and on the pilot boats – around Vanessa’s roster and Tommy’s kindergarten. With us staying in our caravan in their back yard, Kyran can accept more work and we can look after Tommy. Both Kyran and Vanessa work long hours and work hard. We are more than happy to look after Tommy and Skylar, the kelpie. There are so many stunning beaches just a short drive from home, its easy!
When one or both have a day off, they seem very happy to have a day out at scenic spots a bit further out. Yesterday, Vanessa was recovering from night shift but Kyran took us out to meet some of his friends at Giddy River, about 55kms from town. We packed the esky and headed off around 10am back along the Central Arnhem Road dirt track until the turnoff.
Giddy River is gorgeous, a little oasis in the dust and bush. I was hoping it would be a fresh water river and safe from crocodiles but the usual sign, warning of crocs was there for everyone to see.
Giddy River
We met up with Drew, Sam, Talei and Lincoln plus some of their family visiting from Carnarvon and Kununurra. We set up our picnic in one of the camping areas and wandered down to paddle in the clear, shallow water.
Another lovely day out, this time at Giddy River
After the traditional camp fire and barbecue lunch, we took off to Scout Camp not far away. Once again, this was a beautiful little spot with camping areas and a toilet. We strolled down to the river where the kids and dogs, in particular, played in the clear shallow fresh water. This time it was fresh water so I felt it was safer.
Scout CampTommy with Dad and NanaTommy with Dad and PopThe boys enjoyed the rope swing
Once again, we had a fabulous day. Everyone had lots of fun and these impromptu picnics and get together are a regular thing up here in Nhulunbuy. We got a message tonight that we are all catching up tomorrow evening for prawns and drinks over a camp fire for sunset! Something else to look forward to.
The first map shows how big Australia is compared to other countries. The second map shows the distance from home in Dongara, Western Australia to Nhulunbuy in the Northern Territory where we are now – 4,208kms (2,615 miles) but 6,300kms on our car dashboard. The red circle is home and the yellow one is Nhulunbuy. It took us around five weeks to get here but our plan had been to see a lot more on the way. Our Nissan breaking down and covid upset our plans a bit but we will backtrack when we leave here and do what we missed. We wanted to be here in time for Tommy’s 5th birthday on 15th July and to catch up with John’s son and grandsons (Paul, Ben and Zac) who booked a trip here months ago. Sadly, they have had to cancel due to the latest lockdown; they would have to quarantine for two weeks when they returned home. Hopefully, they can come another time.
So why Nhulunbuy? Kyran, Vanessa and Tommy moved here from Melbourne about 18 months ago. Vanessa accepted a job at the hospital and Kyran picked up work on the mine and as a skipper here which he fits in around Vanessa’s shifts and looking after Tommy, who attends kindergarten. I flew here in April for three weeks to help look after Tommy but John hasn’t been before.
Nhulunbuy sits on the Gove Peninsula and has been home to the Yolnga Aboriginal people for 40,000 years. There is a beautiful art gallery in the Yirrkala community that John, Tommy and I really enjoyed going through.
I was surprised to see there are streets named after Matthew Flinders and Captain Cook. I found out Flinders was circumnavigating this area in 1803. When the Bauxite mine opened here in the 1960s (now owned by Rio Tinto) the township was developed. The current population is about 3,000.
At the time of writing, we have been here four days. We are still cleaning the caravan after driving the Gove track! John has already hit the golf course which is very flat compared to Dongara but very green. In fact Nhulunbuy is very green and tropical. It is surrounded by beautiful beaches but it seems a waste not to be able to swim because of crocodiles (and stingers some months of the year).
Camped at Kyran and Vanessa’sMe with TommyTommy helping clean the van
So far we have checked out three local beaches just a few minutes from Kyran and Vanessa’s house- East Woody, Middle Beach and Wirrawuy.
When we arrived at the Northern Territory border, those going into Western Australia were stopped by police at the checkpoint. (We heard later that no travellers were allowed into the state unless they had a booked camp site including ensuite or, if they had an ensuite van, that they were booked into somewhere with a dump point. Apparently every caravan park from Kununurra to Broome was fully booked). Those of us going into the Territory were not stopped nor were our entry permits checked. We had crossed the first hurdle.
The scenery changes going into the Northern Territory. The Pinkerton Ranges rose to our left with red sandstone cliffs forming a collar around them. Our drive took us high into the ranges. Apart from still wondering if we had made the right decision and what we would do if the track to Nhulunbuy was closed, we enjoyed the drive to Katherine.
Beginning of the Pinkerton Ranges in the background
As we finally drove into Katherine, we finally had range on the radio and caught the 4 o’clock news: the NT government had extended its lock down for another five days. Kyran rang and told us to ‘put our foot down and get onto the track’ if it was still open. And we did. We had still 50kms to the turn off.
As we arrived at the turn off, the sign said the road to Nhulunbuy was open! We drove along the track, which starts off as bitumen, until sunset and then we pulled off to camp for the night. It was pitch black and we could hear the wild buffalo calls from a herd we had seen earlier. Anyway we slept well.
Katherine to Nhulunbuy track
We took off at 8am the next morning, driving the 650 kms of red dirt, sand, corrugations and creek crossings towards Nhulunbuy unaware of what could be happening around the country or even the State. We hoped the covid situation had been a storm in a teacup.
The Central Arnhem Road is a real mix of scrub, mini-rainforest, gum trees and large termite mounds. It isn’t a boring drive as there is so much to see. And the driver has to really focus on the track. We passed wild buffalo and donkeys as well as the usual wallabies. Last time I was on this road we saw a pack of dingoes and I’d have loved to see them again but we didn’t.
A common sight on the trackTermite mounds
We passed several cars, trucks and caravans coming towards Katherine but very few going east with us. Other than the customary wave, we had no interaction with other people until we came across a car with a flat battery. Around it was an Aboriginal family – a woman, two men and about 8 kids! The car was in a pretty bad way but John used his jump leads to try to start it. Meantime the kids were surrounding me asking if I had any chips I could give them. I gave them a large pack and they were delighted.
We stopped to help a family who had been piled into an old, battered carA one-eared wild donkey on the track
We could probably have made it to Gove before dark but …we got a puncture! John wasn’t keen on emptying the whole car and disconnecting the caravan to change the tyre so we got away with stopping every 20kms to put air in it!
More car troubles – a puncture
We limped into Nhulunbuy about 8.30pm. It felt like deja vu crawling in with car problems. Our main concern was that Nhulunbuy was closed off and we wouldn’t be allowed in but all was okay. The talk was that if there were more covid cases, we wouldn’t be allowed to leave – but I was with family so I didn’t really care!
Flannerys' Footprints 